I’m Not a Nomad — But I Tried Working in Beigang, Taiwan

March 28–30, 2023 — Beigang, Taiwan

I’m a freelance web designer based in Japan.
To be honest, working while constantly moving from one place to another has always sounded difficult to me.

So I’ve never really seen myself as a digital nomad.
Still, part of me has always wished I could work while traveling abroad —
quiet mornings in a new town, my laptop open beside a cup of coffee.

This time, I decided to give it a try.
Not in a big city like Taipei or Bangkok,
but in a small, quiet town called Beigang, in Yunlin County, Taiwan.

Beigang — A Town of Faith and Fragrance

Beigang is one of Taiwan’s most famous towns of faith,
known for Chaotian Temple, dedicated to the sea goddess Mazu.
During festivals, the entire town becomes alive with noise, color, and incense smoke.

When I visited, there was no major event,
but the old streets still had a kind of quiet energy —
locals shopping, scooters passing,
and the faint smell of food and incense mixing in the warm air.

Getting There from Taipei

I had been staying in Taipei for a few days before heading south.
To reach Beigang, I took the TRA train from Banqiao to Chiayi,
then continued by bus.

Chiayi had been on my list since I saw it on Street Food: Asia on Netflix.

I had time before the bus, so I wandered around and tried the famous chicken rice.

At the bus stop, things didn’t go smoothly.
I couldn’t figure out which bus to take,
and the locals didn’t understand my broken Chinese.
After some gestures, translation apps, and a lot of confusion,
I finally got on the right bus.
Looking back, that small struggle felt like part of the journey itself.

Arriving in Beigang

I arrived around 7:30 p.m. and headed straight to Chaotian Temple.
At the gate, several elderly women stopped me,
insisting I buy something before going inside.
I didn’t really understand what was happening,
so I just decided to leave.

I was tired, so I went to bed early.

Morning Firecrackers and Old Street Life

The next morning, I woke up to what sounded like explosions.
When I looked outside, the streets were covered in red scraps —
it turned out to be firecrackers.

Even early in the morning, Beigang was alive.
People filled the Old Street,
buying food and chatting in the soft morning light.

This time, I entered Chaotian Temple easily.
I still have no idea what those women from last night were doing there.

Working in Beigang

After checking out of the hotel,
I had some time before my next check-in,
so I looked for a cafe to work from.

The first place I’d planned to visit was closed,
so I walked around until I found a small cafe run by a young couple.
They were kind, the latte was excellent,
and the Wi-Fi worked perfectly.

I opened my laptop and worked for a few hours.
It was quiet, simple, and peaceful —
a small reminder that even in a new place,
work can find its own rhythm.

Dark Street House B&B

After booking on Agoda, the owner contacted me via Messenger,
and we met at the entrance for check-in.
He showed me around and recommended a nearby night market.

The room was lovely —
soft lights, wooden floors, and a nostalgic feeling.

I did some work, then went out for dinner.

Beigang is known for its duck rice,
and while the flavor was strong and unusual,
it somehow made me want to try it again.

Night Sounds

When I went to bed that night,
I started hearing strange crackling noises.
It made me a little uneasy,
so I left the TV on and fell asleep.

In the morning, I realized the sound had come from
a bug zapper downstairs.
I laughed at myself and packed up to leave.

Heading to Kaohsiung

When I checked out, the owner wasn’t around,
so I just locked the door and left the key.
The street outside was quiet and charming.

At the bus stop, I asked around again in broken Chinese,
and this time, a kind older man came over to help.
He spoke a mix of English and Japanese,
showed me which bus to take,
and even suggested I visit Sizihwan,
a scenic seaside area in Kaohsiung.